Posted on January 28, 2010 – 12:32 in Fashion | Bjoern
Berlin Fashion Week Wrap Up
Berlin Fashion Week has three major attractions: „Bread and Butter“ (trade show for sportswear – Levi‘s and the likes show their collections here), „Premium“ (a trade fair that attracts a more sophisticated audience) and the runway shows at the tent on Bebelplatz in Berlin Mitte (comparable to the tents at New York Fashion Week).
In 2003 „Bread and Butter“ moved from Cologne to Berlin. Ever since then Berlin tries to find its place on the international fashion calendar – not an easy task as buyers and press are pretty busy with New York, Milan and Paris. But this season the halls of both trade shows „Bread and Butter“ and „Premium“ were packed as never before.
Ina Seifart, accessory designer and exhibitor at „Premium“ reports that even the Japanese buyers are back after a few seasons of absence. In January 2009 just under 17.000 fashion professionals visited „Premium“, in July it was about 31.000. This January 42.000 buyers and press people made their way to the fair.
LUCKY GIRLS AND BORING BOYS AT THE TENT
Finally, Berlin is on its way of finding its own identity. In previous seasons IMG – the company behind the runway shows – tried to attract international labels such as Bottega Veneta or Vivienne Westwood to show their collections. Since this fall/winter 2010/11 season Berlin Fashion Week does not emulate Milan or New York anymore. The shows at the tent were dominated by German talent, although mostly womenswear: Penkov, Mongrels in Common or Frida Weyer as leaders of the Berlin fashion pack showed respectable collections.
Unfortunately there was hardly any men‘s fashion on show, and the collections presented were far from exciting. Kilian Kerner was appointed chief designer of the new label „No Ifs“. In the press release it says: „No Ifs outfits are universal.“ Yes, universally boring and less than modern, above all ill-fitting. Even in the last row one could spot the cheap fabric.
OUTDOOR FEAST AT „BREAD AND BUTTER“
The audience of „Bread and Butter“ (the trade show that is more sportswear oriented than „Premium“) was pretty much styled in the now. For next season‘s street trends it‘s always advisable to rather check out the visitors of the trade shows than the displayed collections. The clothes buyers and press are wearing is usually the items you will find in the stores next season. Junya Watanabe seems to be the greatest influence on sportswear this winter (click here to check out his current collection). The look revolves around sports and outdoor jackets.
The sports jackets come with contrast sleeves. You seem to be wearing a vest over your tailored jacket but actually you‘re not. It‘s a one-piece. This makes for an interesting mix in patterns, material and feel.
Some of the outdoorsy pieces are based on the „Liddesdale Quilt“, a long-time best-seller from Barbour. Only, that the modern versions come shorter and more fitted. Underneath you will find tailored jackets that are just half an inch or an inch longer than the outdoor piece. Layering is the key word. A look that is quite popular with Italians, and we all know that they know best when it comes to casual dressing for the city.
COLOUR AND FACIAL HAIR
At „Bread and Butter“ almost no-one was wearing black: foresty greens, browns, ochre – here and there a dash of red, used for details such as pipings. Popular Fabrics were tweeds, corduroy or quilted outdoor materials. The gentleman is back, even in sportswear. A modern version of the gentleman, though. There is nothing stiff about that look. But still perfect for a weekend in the countryside.
Another popular look was „The Bear“: plaid, plaid, plaid – which hardly comes without facial hair. Beards, Red Wings and heavy flannell shirts – not the light H&M versions.
Artificially rugged denim was on display at pretty much every stand. But the really cool guys wear jeans they broke in themselves, not fake.
Speaking of facial hair: the moustache is still around. But that‘s for the hipster boys who are still wearing skinny jackets. The younger guys who are not into tailoring go for heavy bulky knits: cardigans and scarfs. Although those usually come with skintight denim – drainpipe trousers seem to vanish.
